Updated 30 July 2026
Short answer: stop foxes digging under a chicken coop by fixing strong welded mesh to the enclosure and either burying it at least 450 mm deep or laying it outward as a 500 mm ground apron. A concrete or secure timber floor is another option. Close the roof and every gap too—a fox can also climb, squeeze through weak mesh or force a loose edge.
If you have found a scrape beside your chicken run, do not wait for a deeper tunnel. Foxes are persistent, and a fence that only keeps chickens in may not keep a predator out. The good news is that most existing coops can be retrofitted without rebuilding the entire enclosure.
This guide focuses on practical Australian recommendations from government and animal-welfare sources. It also explains where an automatic chicken door helps—and where it does not.
Three ways to stop a fox digging under a coop
| Method | Best for | Key measurement |
|---|---|---|
| Buried mesh barrier | Permanent runs and new builds | At least 450 mm below ground |
| Outward mesh apron | Retrofitting a coop without deep trenching | About 500 mm outward from the fence |
| Solid floor or footing | Small night coops and fixed structures | No gaps between floor and walls |
Victorian council guidance says wire netting should be buried at least 450 mm or attached to a concrete or wooden floor. Brisbane City Council's fox-proof pen design also gives a 500 mm outward apron as an alternative to buried mesh. Those are useful minimum design references, but the entire enclosure still needs to be secure.
The easiest retrofit: add an outward wire-mesh apron
For an existing coop or cage, a mesh apron is often the least disruptive fix. It works because a fox usually begins digging where the wall meets the ground. The barrier extends away from that edge, so the animal meets mesh instead of open soil.
What you will need
- Strong galvanised welded mesh or aviary mesh—not thin, flexible poultry wire
- A mesh strip approximately 500 mm wide for the full perimeter
- Corrosion-resistant screws with wide washers, heavy-duty clips or another fixing suited to your frame
- Strong ground pegs or landscape pins
- Soil, turf, pavers or mulch to cover and protect the mesh
- Gloves, eye protection and tools suitable for cutting and fixing wire
If quolls occur in your area, use the more conservative wildlife-safe specification in the NSW guide: 10–15 mm square spot-welded aviary mesh and no openings larger than 20 mm around the enclosure. This helps protect native animals as well as your flock. For fox exclusion alone, Hobsons Bay City Council specifies strong netting with openings no larger than 40–50 mm, but smaller welded mesh offers broader protection.
How to install the apron
- Move the chickens to a safe area. Do not cut or handle wire while birds can reach sharp edges or offcuts.
- Inspect the whole base. Fill existing holes and repair rotten timber, bent framing, loose staples and gaps under gates. Mesh cannot compensate for a wall that can be pushed apart.
- Level the perimeter. Remove rocks, weeds and debris so the mesh can sit flat against the ground.
- Fix the inner edge to the enclosure. Fasten the mesh continuously along the bottom frame. Use wide washers or purpose-made clips so a fox cannot pull the wire away from the structure. Fold or cap every cut edge.
- Lay the mesh outward. Run it approximately 500 mm away from the wall, flat on or just below the soil. At corners, overlap and fasten adjoining sections so there is no unprotected wedge.
- Peg it securely. Pin the outer edge and any raised sections closely enough that a nose or paw cannot lift the mesh.
- Cover and check it. Add soil, turf, pavers or mulch. The RSPCA recommends covering ground mesh so chickens are not walking directly on exposed wire, which may injure their feet.
Do not put an apron only where you saw digging. Continue it around the complete accessible perimeter, including gates, corners and joins between a run and a night house.
For a permanent build: bury the barrier or use a solid base
If you are installing a new enclosure—or rebuilding one that foxes repeatedly test—a buried barrier is more durable. Continue the wall mesh at least 450 mm below ground and secure it so it cannot separate from the above-ground section. In areas where native quolls are a concern, the NSW guidance gives a minimum depth of 400 mm; using the stricter 450 mm fox recommendation covers both references.
A properly joined concrete floor or sound timber floor can also block digging. Check drainage before pouring a slab, keep bedding dry, and make sure the wall-to-floor joint has no opening. A few pavers placed loosely around the edge are not equivalent to a continuous footing: soil can erode, and a fox can start at the gaps.
If you are choosing a new enclosure, compare the base, roof, frame and mesh—not just the number of birds shown in the product name. Our chicken coops and metal chicken coops still need to be installed on a suitable, secure base for your site.
Why ordinary chicken wire is not enough
Light poultry netting is designed mainly to contain chickens. Brisbane City Council guidance warns that foxes can bite through ordinary light-gauge chicken wire and recommends stronger weldmesh or chain mesh. Thin wire can also stretch, tear at staples or leave gaps at the frame.
Look for these qualities when buying mesh:
- Welded intersections: they resist distortion better than loose hexagonal wire.
- Small openings: choose 10–15 mm aviary mesh where quolls, snakes or rodents are also a concern.
- Outdoor durability: use material and fasteners appropriate for weather and contact with soil.
- Secure attachment: screws and washers or robust clips should hold the mesh to a sound frame.
Mesh size is only one part of the system. Strong wire attached with weak staples can still fail, and a secure wall with an open roof is not a secure enclosure.
Fox-proof the whole chicken coop, not just the ground
After fixing the digging route, work through the rest of the enclosure:
- Add a secure roof. Foxes can climb, and both the RSPCA and council guidance recommend a fully roofed enclosure.
- Close gaps. Inspect around doors, vents, roof lines, corners and service openings. Use strong mesh without leaving sharp edges.
- Strengthen gates and latches. A gate should close flush and should not create a gap beneath it. Use a latch that cannot be bumped or nosed open.
- Lock chickens into a secure night house. Check that every bird is inside before closing it.
- Remove attractants. Clean spilled feed, secure rubbish and compost, collect fallen fruit and store feed in closed containers.
- Inspect weekly and after storms. Look for fresh soil, stretched mesh, corrosion, loose fixings and erosion under the perimeter.
Will an automatic chicken door stop a fox?
An automatic door can secure the pop-hole at night, but it cannot stop a fox digging under an unprotected fence. Treat it as a second layer after the base, walls, roof and gaps are secure.
A timer or light-sensor door can reduce the chance of the coop being left open after dusk. It still needs to close against a solid frame, and you should test its timing, battery and travel regularly. Chickens must be inside before it shuts.
If that secondary layer suits your setup, compare our automatic chicken coop doors. The solar-powered automatic chicken coop door offers light-sensor, timer, manual and remote operation. It helps control the doorway; it does not make the surrounding run fox-proof.
What if a fox keeps returning?
Fresh digging means the enclosure still has a weak point. Keep the flock in the secure night house while you inspect the complete perimeter. A motion-activated camera can help identify where an animal approaches, but lights and cameras are monitoring aids rather than physical barriers.
Do not use poison, traps or electric fencing without checking state and local rules and obtaining qualified advice; these methods can endanger pets and native wildlife. NSW Government guidance recommends maintaining exclusion fencing and contacting a local biosecurity officer for advice. Depending on your state and property, your council, Local Land Services office or a licensed pest controller can explain lawful options.
Remember that a visiting animal may be a protected native quoll rather than a fox. If you are unsure, photograph tracks or camera footage from a safe distance and ask your state wildlife authority for identification guidance.
Frequently asked questions
How deep should mesh go to stop foxes?
Use at least 450 mm below ground for a buried fox barrier, based on Australian government and council guidance. The mesh must remain securely joined to the enclosure above ground.
How wide should a fox-proof mesh apron be?
Brisbane City Council's poultry-pen design recommends an apron angled outward for 500 mm at the base. Secure it to the frame, peg it flat, protect every corner and cover exposed mesh.
Can a fox dig through chicken wire?
A fox does not need to dig through the wire if it can pull up an edge, tear light mesh or tunnel beyond a short strip. Ordinary light-gauge chicken wire is not recommended as the main exclusion barrier. Use stronger welded mesh and secure fixings.
Will pavers around the coop stop digging?
Pavers can help hold a mesh apron down, but isolated pavers alone may shift or leave diggable gaps. A continuous buried barrier, fixed apron or properly joined solid base is more reliable.
Does the same advice apply to rabbit or guinea pig cages?
Yes, the basic fox-exclusion principles—strong small mesh, a roof, a protected base and secure night housing—also apply to outdoor rabbit and guinea pig enclosures. Make sure the floor and internal setup remain suitable for that species and that exposed wire cannot injure feet.
A simple retrofit checklist
- Use strong welded mesh, not thin poultry wire.
- Bury it at least 450 mm or create an approximately 500 mm outward apron.
- Fasten the mesh continuously to a sound frame.
- Overlap and secure corners, gates and joins.
- Cover ground mesh to protect chickens' feet.
- Roof the run and close every access gap.
- Lock the flock into a secure night house.
- Remove food attractants and inspect the enclosure weekly.
The key is continuity: a fox only needs one unprotected edge. Fix the base, then test the walls, roof and door as one complete system.
